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    Help w/ Water valve actuator

    I would like to install something like this to my automation, but it uses insteon to activate it, I don't use insteon I only have zwave, is there a zwave solution to make this work?


    http://www.smarthome.com/70275/Smart...-12V-DC/p.aspx
    Hector
    ____________________________________
    Win.2003 OS, HS3
    BLDSC,BLstat,BLRadar,BLRamdom,BLOccupied
    BLups,BLrain8,HSTouch,Ultrajones Weatherbug,
    MyTrigger,ACRF2,W800,Zwave
    AP800,Honeywell Stat

    #2
    HomeSeer offers 3/4 and 1" Z-Wave valves, but they are quite a bit more expensive. http://store.homeseer.com/store/Sear...0water%20valve
    HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

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      #3
      http://store.homeseer.com/store/Fort...-P891C239.aspx
      cheeryfool

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        #4
        Sorry. Posts crossed
        cheeryfool

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          #5
          In looking further at the item you posted, it is a 12-volt controlled valve. It is not by itself an Insteon device. In order to make it Insteon controlled, you add a dry contact closure device and a 12-volt power supply. You could use a Z-Wave dry contact closure device instead.
          HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

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            #6
            A few months ago on CT a group buy was set up for a similiar valve.

            http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/2...lve-group-buy/

            That said one of the features of the "better" valve was the additional status switches / wires built into the switch itself. The valve with status switches wasn't much more expensive than the one without status switches.

            Using one of the aforementioned valves with status would provide some feedback relating to the physical closure of the switch.

            Thinking now that it was sort of a hack to modify the one we purchased even though some of the status switch traces were on the circuit board.
            - Pete

            Auto mator
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              #7
              Originally posted by rprade View Post
              In looking further at the item you posted, it is a 12-volt controlled valve. It is not by itself an Insteon device. In order to make it Insteon controlled, you add a dry contact closure device and a 12-volt power supply. You could use a Z-Wave dry contact closure device instead.
              Seems to me that you need to use 2 dry Contacts one for opening, one for closing, I think you need to zwave devices for that?
              Hector
              ____________________________________
              Win.2003 OS, HS3
              BLDSC,BLstat,BLRadar,BLRamdom,BLOccupied
              BLups,BLrain8,HSTouch,Ultrajones Weatherbug,
              MyTrigger,ACRF2,W800,Zwave
              AP800,Honeywell Stat

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Rotech View Post
                Seems to me that you need to use 2 dry Contacts one for opening, one for closing, I think you need to zwave devices for that?
                That would be true if there is not a Z-Wave SPDT switch you would have to use two devices. That would be problematic. I haven't looked for such a device but with a quick search I didn't find one. Maybe one of the other members knows of a Z-Wave SPDT device. Depending on your technical comfort level, you could add a 120-volt (or 12-volt) SPDT relay to a Z-Wave dry contact switch like the linear or evolve units. A relay would set you back less than$10.
                HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Pete View Post
                  A few months ago on CT a group buy was set up for a similiar valve.

                  http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/2...lve-group-buy/

                  That said one of the features of the "better" valve was the additional status switches / wires built into the switch itself. The valve with status switches wasn't much more expensive than the one without status switches.

                  Using one of the aforementioned valves with status would provide some feedback relating to the physical closure of the switch.

                  Thinking now that it was sort of a hack to modify the one we purchased even though some of the status switch traces were on the circuit board.
                  A valve with status switches is appealing to me. It also would be a perfect candidate for an Arduino solution,
                  HS4 Pro, 4.2.19.0 Windows 10 pro, Supermicro LP Xeon

                  Comment


                    #10
                    @Randy

                    Have a look at the thread above posted in CT, what Bucko used in China and what Charlie mentions. We purchased a B2 model type valve where as Bucko used a B5 model type valve. The prices were good anyways.

                    Here is the company website.

                    http://www.electric-valve.com/

                    There might be a couple of valves still available or you can purchase direct as one user did. They were some $80 for the basic model including shipping I think.

                    Here I redid my water stuff with the installation of a new 1" city meter replacing the old 3/4" city meter. Lucky here that they just gave it to me and I did it; it was a PITA though but I did set up for the valve to be installed next.
                    Last edited by Pete; May 28, 2014, 09:52 AM.
                    - Pete

                    Auto mator
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                      #11
                      Help w/ Water valve actuator

                      You got lucky Pete. I priced a 1 inch city meter and supply, and it was well over 5 thousand. Yeah, I decided to just stay on 3/4...

                      I still have a few extra Elk valves, one wsv1 and one wsv2, both unused. I can dig them out and let them go for whatever the fair eBay price for them is.
                      Last edited by Automated; May 29, 2014, 12:30 AM. Reason: more text

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                        #12
                        Yup; here called the local town water department to ask for a new 1" meter. Water inspector gave it to me and did a pre-installation and post installation (connecting up the wires) of the meter. Most of the work involved making room for it as I also have a second water meter there plus pressure guages and many valves.

                        The meter is much larger than the older brass meter and all plastic. It is a Sensus SR2 /aS. 2nd water meter (mine) is a DLG. Analog water pressure meters are Campbell and using Legend water valves. The supplemental pump is a Davey. The Davey is built to last forever. I have called them in Australia relating to a take apart and cleaning. Great folks there.

                        As the thermostat automation is dependent on WAF; so is the plumbing here; mostly related to some ancillary projects in the old house (well shutting down the water all day is not really high up there on the WAF).

                        That said everything is copper here. I did remove some copper elbows and utilized brass elbows instead. With this endeavor I created an area for the valve. The above noted the ingress does go to a Davey supplemental pressure pump and there is a mixture of 1" and 3/4' pipes still in place.

                        Yeah parts of the "automation" endeavors over the years have been related to learning how to sweat copper piping; not too difficult once you have done a few (well most difficult pieces are WAF).

                        Old fashioned here still prefer the conduit for electric and copper for the plumbing. In Florida the plumbing is copper but the electric is all bx and there are fire breaks in all of the walls (which is a PITA).
                        Last edited by Pete; May 29, 2014, 06:43 AM.
                        - Pete

                        Auto mator
                        Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
                        Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
                        HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

                        HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
                        HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

                        X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Rotech View Post
                          I would like to install something like this to my automation, but it uses insteon to activate it, I don't use insteon I only have zwave, is there a zwave solution to make this work?
                          http://www.smarthome.com/70275/Smart...-12V-DC/p.aspx
                          Hi Rotech, I just came back from FL last week and have installed exactly that water valve on my 3/4" water main. I'm also all Z-Wave like you. I already had a spare cat6 cable close to the valve location, so I used 3 wires from that to connect to the valve - red (close), green (open) and black (common). I bought two regulated 12VDC 0.5A power supplies (also shown on your link at the bottom) and soldered them to the other end of the 50ft cat6 cable in the house - red went to the positive of one power supply, green went to the positive of the second power supply, and black went to the 2 joined commons of both power supplies. I then plugged the 2 power supplies into 2 instant status appliance modules http://store.homeseer.com/store/Levi...e-P577C86.aspx.
                          I set up events such that if either appliance module is switched on, then it switches off automatically after 10 seconds so power doesn't remain applied to the water valve longer than necessary. Finally I added events and associations to all my water sensors around the house to activate the water valve closing power supply if there's a leak and alert me.

                          With this solution, as I am remote from the house most of the time, I have no proof that the valve is actually opening or closing, only that the appliance modules are reporting activating, but I don't know that any other solution would be better as there's nothing I've found that is actually connected to the valve turning mechanism itself for monitoring. My quick and dirty proof will probably involve installing a small water sprinkler in the yard within sight of one of my netcams, so that when I remotely open the water valve and close it I can actually see the water flow start and stop!

                          I chose this solution rather than the all-in-one Z-Wave water valves as I wanted the granularity of parts to replace if they fail i.e. I can replace the 2 appliance modules, or 2 power supplies, or cat 6 cable if they fail and do not have to touch the water valve. I was also concerned about reliability as the water valve is quite a way from my Controller - now my 2 appliance modules are right next to the Controller and have 90+ neighbors!
                          All Z-Wave, #101 devices, HomeTroller Series2, HomeSeer2 v.2.5.0.81, & 1x Z-Troller

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                            #14
                            Wow, that's great, what was your over all cost if I may ask?
                            Hector
                            ____________________________________
                            Win.2003 OS, HS3
                            BLDSC,BLstat,BLRadar,BLRamdom,BLOccupied
                            BLups,BLrain8,HSTouch,Ultrajones Weatherbug,
                            MyTrigger,ACRF2,W800,Zwave
                            AP800,Honeywell Stat

                            Comment


                              #15
                              $100 - water valve
                              $10 - 2 power supplies
                              $120 - 2 appliance modules
                              $15 - 50ft cat6 cable

                              I could have done the plumbing and soldering around the water main feed myself, but as I am remote from the house most of the time, I wanted a local, professional licensed plumber to do it so I could more easily have him come back if there's a leak or other issue - that set me back $380.

                              I wish I had taken a photo to post - I'll ask my yard guy if he can snap one next week and send me...
                              All Z-Wave, #101 devices, HomeTroller Series2, HomeSeer2 v.2.5.0.81, & 1x Z-Troller

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