Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Circuit help: Drive relay with 1- 5 volts and 12 volts

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    It is absurd!! Absolutely is lol. But...

    I put heated seats in my vehicle and hate the switch. I obtained oem switches and want to use those instead.

    Nutty I know

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by mycrobyte View Post
      It is absurd!! Absolutely is lol. But...

      I put heated seats in my vehicle and hate the switch. I obtained oem switches and want to use those instead.

      Nutty I know
      Now that's a fully accepted reason....
      - Bram

      Send from my Commodore VIC-20

      Ashai_Rey____________________________________________________________ ________________
      HS3 Pro 3.0.0.534
      PIugins: ZMC audio | ZMC VR | ZMC IR | ZMC NDS | RFXcom | AZ scripts | Jon00 Scripts | BLBackup | FritzBox | Z-Wave | mcsMQTT | AK Ikea

      Comment


        #18
        First, I thought of that, but I now know that I was WRONG in thinking this was going on his home automation machine.

        Second, in a car, it is not 12V. You need to plan that the 12V is anywhere from 11-14.5V with noise.

        So, you'll need isolation or other such stuff. Designing for a car is not nice.

        --Dan
        Tasker, to a person who does Homeautomation...is like walking up to a Crack Treatment facility with a truck full of 3lb bags of crack. Then for each person that walks in and out smack them in the face with an open bag.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by mycrobyte View Post
          ... I obtained oem switches and want to use those instead.
          Ok, this makes sense to me now! Not silly at all (using the OEM switches.)

          You might consider using a display driver like the LM3916. It operates on a very wide power supply, reads an analog voltage and drives a series of LEDs to indicate the voltage level on the input (originally used primarily for audio VU meters.) You could easily tie the output of your new 'variable switch' to the input of this device, then choose two of the appropriate outputs to trigger your seat heat controller. Each output on the IC is current limited to directly drive LEDs without using resistors and can sink 10mA of current - ie; On = ground, Off = floating (no voltage.) Depending on your seat heater control input requirements, you may be able to use a transistor for each output rather than having to involve relays as well. If you measure the current required to activate each seat heater input and let me know I can help with designing a circuit.

          These ICs are available from most of the normal distributors, and I see Jameco has them.
          Best regards,
          -Mark-

          If you're not out on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
          Interested in 3D maps? Check out my company site: Solid Terrain Modeling

          Comment


            #20
            Over the years here have noticed (not lately though) that automobiles would be prewired for just about any option that was available for said model year.

            Curious if you thought of just adding the entire assembly for the heated seats for said model car year. All original OEM using the prewire that typically is put into place for said options.

            Here we do utilize the seat warmers and variable temperatures per seat in the winter; works well and is high on the WAF.

            Personally here have done that on a few of the electronics in the automobile. Many times too while doing this or that have wondered what the heck an unconnected connector is for until I started to look in details relating to the wiring of stuff.

            One day just a few years ago while driving around Lookout Mountain it started to snow.

            Personally I wanted to keep driving; but due to WAF had to stop driving.

            Folks at the place we stopped said something about it being unusual that it snowed.

            Next day in the morning it was very cold and it had only snowed a little bit. For whatever reason I told my wife I wanted to just rinse off the car a bit before starting back on our journey.

            Well it was so cold that the water froze on the automobile that morning and I used the steering wheel heater for the first time ever. I always wondered what the purpose of it was until I needed to use it that cold snowy morning by Lookout Mountain.
            - Pete

            Auto mator
            Homeseer 3 Pro - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e 64 bit Intel Haswell CPU 16Gb
            Homeseer Zee2 (Lite) - 3.0.0.548 (Linux) - Ubuntu 18.04/W7e - CherryTrail x5-Z8350 BeeLink 4Gb BT3 Pro
            HS4 Lite - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenovo Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram

            HS4 Pro - V4.1.18.1 - Ubuntu 22.04 / Lenova Tiny M900 / 32Gb Ram
            HSTouch on Intel tabletop tablets (Jogglers) - Asus AIO - Windows 11

            X10, UPB, Zigbee, ZWave and Wifi MQTT automation-Tasmota-Espurna. OmniPro 2, Russound zoned audio, Alexa, Cheaper RFID, W800 and Home Assistant

            Comment


              #21
              I just love this community. Appreciate all the ideas - the lm3916 sounds fun. Believe I'd need a transistor since the relay is beefy. I'll get exact specs but circuit fuse is 30 amp at 12 vdc.

              So I'd presume you match an output w a voltage range.

              Yes mfisher a napkin
              sketch would be appreciated.

              Comment


                #22
                Just a few questions before putting pen to paper...

                1) What is the current required to drive each control input? We'll need actual measurements and it should be in the milliamp (mA) range. The beefiness of the relays and 30a fuse relate to the heaters, not the amount of control current needed to activate each function. Let me know if you're not quite sure how to measure this and I'll walk you through it

                2) Can you provide a link to the manual for the heater that shows a wiring diagram?

                3) Does it look like the case for the heater controller could be easily opened or is it completely sealed? I'm thinking it will be easier to have this little circuit we're talking about live inside the controller rather out at the switch.

                4) Can you supply the details for the new 'variable switch' you are using such as part number, schematic diagram or a link? Need to understand if it can be used as a potentiometer or only as a variable resistor. Also need to know the value of the resistor (how many Ohms?)

                5) Does the new switch include lights or LEDs? If so, will you want them to illuminate?
                Best regards,
                -Mark-

                If you're not out on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
                Interested in 3D maps? Check out my company site: Solid Terrain Modeling

                Comment


                  #23
                  Oke, i gave it another thought and this time it do fullfill all the requierments like:
                  0-1V off
                  1-5V on
                  5-10V off
                  10- on
                  Actual switching can be adjusted a bit with different zener values in the image below

                  But to show you that the oldies can be modern i would advice to use something like an Attiny45 which is quiet adequate for this job.
                  Attached Files
                  - Bram

                  Send from my Commodore VIC-20

                  Ashai_Rey____________________________________________________________ ________________
                  HS3 Pro 3.0.0.534
                  PIugins: ZMC audio | ZMC VR | ZMC IR | ZMC NDS | RFXcom | AZ scripts | Jon00 Scripts | BLBackup | FritzBox | Z-Wave | mcsMQTT | AK Ikea

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X