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Solution for ZWave'ing Old light switches

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    #16
    Originally posted by Rupp View Post
    Yes.
    Gotcha - thats what I thought. That doesnt seem practical to put a $40 z-wave bulb there. I'd go for a $12 Cree from home depot in that case.
    HS4Pro on a Raspberry Pi4
    54 Z-Wave Nodes / 21 Zigbee Devices / 108 Events / 767 Devices
    Plugins: Z-Wave / Zigbee Plus / EasyTrigger / AK Weather / OMNI

    HSTouch Clients: 1 Android

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      #17
      Not sure how your 2-wire system works in the US but here in the UK most houses are wired this way with only the live, switched live and earth available at the wall switch point.

      Depending on the lighting type and if it's ground or 1st floor, single rose in centre of room or multiple downlights etc you may be able to access the point at which the wiring for the switch is connected in the ceiling and install the module there where the neutral will be present.

      I've done that here in a couple of places where it wasn't convenient to run the neutral wire and then use the old switch wires as the signal.

      Paul..

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        #18
        Originally posted by sooty View Post
        Not sure how your 2-wire system works in the US but here in the UK most houses are wired this way with only the live, switched live and earth available at the wall switch point.

        Depending on the lighting type and if it's ground or 1st floor, single rose in centre of room or multiple downlights etc you may be able to access the point at which the wiring for the switch is connected in the ceiling and install the module there where the neutral will be present.

        I've done that here in a couple of places where it wasn't convenient to run the neutral wire and then use the old switch wires as the signal.

        Paul..
        That is great idea - Aeon micro switch would work perfectly with this setup. I am taking that the way wiring works is H/N/G goes to the 1st light, N is connected there and to all other lights in the group, H goes to switch and comes back as switched-H, goes back to the light and all other lights. Now you use H/s-H goes to the switch as non-powered to switch input of the micro switch. I think this is probably how older houses in US are wired as well.

        In my house (newer 2006 US) the wiring is H/N/G goes to the switch, then switched-H/N/G go to the lights. Another parallel branch of H/N/G from the switch goes to next switch or next outlet. That makes N always accessible which is nice. and allows for dimmers and other electronic switches (z-wave etc) to be powered.

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          #19
          Originally posted by rmasonjr View Post
          Gotcha - thats what I thought. That doesnt seem practical to put a $40 z-wave bulb there. I'd go for a $12 Cree from home depot in that case.
          I agree - putting bulb makes sense if you will disable the switch and use association with another switch to always match 2 bulbs ... or use battery powered switch/controller instead. Otherwise it is annoying if anyone turns of off physically and you can turn it on.

          There seems to be lots of such bulbs around but I really don't see a point - especially in main rooms everyone will be very confused if they cannot use regular switch and it doesn't turn on as z-wave is in off state.

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            #20
            Our house was originally built in 1870. We did a major refurbishment about 15 years ago which included re-wiring the whole house but at that time I wasn't into the home automation scene, so most of the lighting circuits were done with 2 wires. The socket outlets are not such a big deal as each room is on it's own dedicated circuit plus a few other circuits for single appliances.

            Automating the lighting has not been too difficult because I have used mostly Fibaro dimmer modules behind the wall which can work in 2-wire mode but in my experience this only works well with incandescent lighting. I have tried them with various LED's and CFL's but with limited success.

            As I said in my previous post, for some non-incandescent lighting I was able to install the module at the light fitting.

            The house has all solid brick internal walls, so as each room is being redecorated I'm replacing the wiring to the wall switches to provide neutral at the switch so I then have the option to use LED's in the future.

            I have monitored it extensively and the electricity consumed here for lighting is only a small percentage of the total, so I'm not so concerned about going all LED. All outside lighting is now LED but to be honest we prefer the halogen light colour inside.

            Paul..

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              #21
              Thanks everyone. Most light switches I have wanted to change out have been three way and thus haven't been a problem, but I have 2 lights outside the garage that are on one switch just inside the garage door. I want cfl or led out there and want them on after dark for a few hours and to turn on when we go out the front door. Not sure I can put a switch earlier in the circuit ( not sure where it is coming from, but don't want it tied to inside garage lighting).


              Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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                #22
                Originally posted by sooty View Post
                Not sure how your 2-wire system works in the US but here in the UK most houses are wired this way with only the live, switched live and earth available at the wall switch point.

                Depending on the lighting type and if it's ground or 1st floor, single rose in centre of room or multiple downlights etc you may be able to access the point at which the wiring for the switch is connected in the ceiling and install the module there where the neutral will be present.

                I've done that here in a couple of places where it wasn't convenient to run the neutral wire and then use the old switch wires as the signal.

                Paul..
                Same - I don't have neutral wires at any of my light switches so all z-wave modules have been installed in the junction boxes inside the ceiling - plenty more space too! Also since all the modules are in the same 'room' (ceiling) there is no interference or loss of signal from brick walls. Double plus is that it's no issue to add a z-wave module to a room that has two or three switches for the same light - the junction box still has a single live out and a single switched back that you can use as the signal wire.

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                  #23
                  Which micro switches have you all had good success with in doing this?


                  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by TechFan View Post
                    Which micro switches have you all had good success with in doing this?


                    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                    Here in the UK I use a mix of Fibaro and Aeon micro modules for lighting. The Fibaro's are a little more versatile and have the option of a second input switch to control associated devices but IMO the Aeon units feel better quality.

                    Paul..

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                      #25
                      I have 100% aeon labs. I often use a double switch to save money - even if it means running a wire across from another junction box.

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