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Is my amp on or off?

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    Is my amp on or off?

    I just got NetRemote working with hsGirder and my creative juices are a flowing and I hit my first hurdle. I am turning on/off my av amp through NetRemote using IRBlaster, but how can I tell HS whether the amp is currently on or off?

    I created a virtual device called 'amp' and thought I'd just be able to set the status of it whenever the 'amp power' event was triggered but what about this scenerio:

    Suppose I'm watching TV through an event called 'watchTV'. This event turns on my amp and tv. Then I restart homeseer (or do something else that knocks the status of the amp out of whack). My amp is on but now the status of amp will be 'unknown'.

    So how is everyone else handling this issue? I tried doing a search for this but the search engine doesn't like the words 'on' and 'off'

    Thanks
    Eric

    #2
    Eric,
    The "cleanest" way is to use discrete IR codes and it really will not matter if its on of off. You simply send an on code and if it's off it comes on. If it's on it stays on.

    Another way if your receiver doesn't do discrete IR codes is to use a CR Magnet and run the power cord through the magnet. Connect this to a powerflash module. When the magnet detects current flow it turns on the powerflash and sets a device in HS that states AV receiver is on.

    Yet another way would be to a relay connected to your "extra power outlet" that is available on many receivers. Then have this relay send a signal to a powerflash module.

    There are many many ways.
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      #3
      Are these "discrete IR codes" specific to the component? How could I get my hands on these little buggers?

      Comment


        #4
        Yes they are different depending on the maker and model of your receiver. I know Sony has them but that's about my depth of knowledge on these. The best place to start looking is http://www.remotecentral.com/
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          #5
          jp1

          http://www.remotecentral.com

          http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/


          There might be an easier way to program homeseer for descrete codes. For my projector, I had to build a jp1 interface, find the codes on a faq site about my projector, program a universal remote, and have homeseer learn them. There might be an application to convert codes directly to the ocelot or something, I'm just not sure.

          [update].... RUPP you beat me to it
          Joe (zimmer62)

          BLSecurtiy, AC-RF2, RCS Serial Thermostats, RFXCOM SMarthome SwitchLinc, mcsXap, Global Cache GC100, SqueezeBox, TWA_ONKYOINTEGRA, BLLogMonitor, BLPlugins, BLRadar, BLSpeech, BLZLog.aspx, HSTouch (Windows, iPhone, iPod), USB Mimo touchscreens, VMWare Server, Vortexbox, Windows Home Server, MyMovies, Windows Media Center, X10, ZWave, and much much much more.

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            #6
            Rupp,

            Is the CRMagnet above strong enough to simply just run it's output to one of the analog or digital (simple transistor switch curcuit) of the ocelot inputs? That would elmininate the powerflash and probably a bit more accurate. Just thinking..

            I was wondering the length of the wire between the CRMAGNET and the Ocelot and the signal levels. This might also be a solution for Jim's "how do I know if my TV is on" problem.

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              #7
              Excellent!
              The descrete codes worked like a charm. This is exactly what I was looking for.

              Thanks again guys,
              Eric

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                #8
                George,
                I can't answer that because I'm electronically challenged. I just know that I put one of the magnets on my TV and attached the other end to the powerflash and it worked. I really wish I knew and understood more about electronics but I'm learning.
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                  #9
                  I may order one and see what kind of output they have. BTW, here's a perfect example on how you can take this simple unit and significantly over engineer it!

                  http://www.crmagnetics.com/newprod/P...rodName=CR5395

                  They want $100 bucks for this. Granted, sexy but I think about $15 of Radio Shack parts would do the same thing.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Rupp,

                    Can you provide more info about your power-on detector (CR Magnetics device)? Do you have a resistor in parallel with the device? If so, do you know the value? According to the graph in the link you provided, the needed output from this device that will trigger a Powerflash module (6-18V) requires a minimum input current of 18-20 Amps with a 1K ohm resistor. That's quite a lot and more than a TV draws (if I remember correctly most draw less than 3 amps). It doesn't seem possible that this setup would work.

                    If my assumptions are wrong here, someone please correct me and I'll gladly plunk down $13 for one of these to solve my problem of not having any discrete codes to work with.

                    Chuck

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                      #11
                      George,
                      The one that Rupp posted will produce a current proportional to the load current. There was another thread somewhere on the board concerning how to calculate the burden resistor for the 0-5 v that the ocelot expects. I think the curves and formula are also on the catalog cut for the device.

                      If you're only interested in on/off status, I use this one- CR9321. The NPN version of it can be connected directly to a secu16 as a supervised input. I've got one on the TV about 50 feet from the ocelot and it's worked fine for a few years now.
                      jim

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                        #12
                        Yup, That one will work just fine and I don't have to cobble up any parts myself. Thanks Jim.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Chas821
                          Rupp,

                          Can you provide more info about your power-on detector (CR Magnetics device)? Do you have a resistor in parallel with the device? If so, do you know the value? According to the graph in the link you provided, the needed output from this device that will trigger a Powerflash module (6-18V) requires a minimum input current of 18-20 Amps with a 1K ohm resistor. That's quite a lot and more than a TV draws (if I remember correctly most draw less than 3 amps). It doesn't seem possible that this setup would work.

                          If my assumptions are wrong here, someone please correct me and I'll gladly plunk down $13 for one of these to solve my problem of not having any discrete codes to work with.

                          Chuck
                          Chuck,
                          I just checked and using the split magnet my 27" TV generates ~10.4 v
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                            #14
                            A good tip for any current sensor use is that you can just wind the wire around the ring to increase its output. It will add up the total current flowing through each turn.

                            John
                            John

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                              #15
                              Rupp,

                              Thanks for investigating for me. And thanks for the tip as well John. I just ordered one and we'll see how it works out.

                              Chuck

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